Day 13 - 14 Freycinet Saffire

 Jan 16 - 17th  Day 13 - 14

Saffire Freycinet
(Beth)

The Saffire Lodge in Freycinet National Park, shaped like a stingray with a gracefully sloped roof, is a stunning combination of hospitality and nature. As we walked into the main lodge building, we were treated to our first view of the Hazards mountain range and the gorgeous Coles Bay, with "Penguin Island" at its center. (We couldn't recall the real name of this privately owned island reputed to have a 10-BR AirBNB home and a penguin rookery that gets very loud around 2 am every day.) 

Warm welcome written right into the sand!

We were spoiled rotten by the amazing staff who fed us way too well, skillfully guided us along the terrain, educated us about the flora and fauna, and went out of their way to find us our first wallaby!

Our first adventure was a trip to the Marine Oyster Farm down the road. We donned our posh waders and strolled out into the bay.

Here's our adorable guide-slash-shucker Eli, who taught us how the oysters are nurtured from baby spawn to the delicious silky-topped oysters we enjoyed throughout Tasmania. He also told us how he wooed his girlfriend with his picnic skills. Eli's a keeper.

Rob filling barrels with newest batch.
Steve inspecting his work.

Later that day, we returned to Bicheno Bay (see Karen's previous post about our trip from Hobart) for a tour of the Waubs Harbour Whiskey Distillery. Tom walked us through the process from barley to fermented barley water to moonshine (!) to the delicious whiskeys we tasted at the end. We had the chance to talk with Rob, the visionary behind the whole enterprise. Then we cleaned up at the hotel and ate our 5th meal of the day!

The wind and threat of rain didn't slow us down as we set off with our guide Chris for our hike of Wineglass Bay, arguably Freycinet's most picturesque vista. Chris regaled us with some of his crazy trekking and tracking adventures, including a year spent with Tibetan monks to follow a beautiful snow leopard (now tattooed on Chris's forearm. Of all the experiences Chris shared, I think it's fair to say we were all most amazed that he could've been silent for 10 days at the monastery. 😄 With a dramatic flair, he delivered us to the lookout spot and took some stunning footage even though the sky was misty.

Back at "base camp," we learned all about the Tasmanian Devil Sanctuary overseen by Saffire's devil expert, Nicole. (Devils are prone to a lethal face cancer, and by separating out the unafflicted,  they are helping to save the population from extinction.) While we had previously felt sorry for "poor Melvyn" because his back was all scratched up and hairless, we found out that male Tasmanian Devils have a nasty habit of trapping the female in the burrow where they've just done the deed by sitting on the opening. The female will then scratch at his bottom until he finally moves and lets her out. We were not a fan of the male devil after learning of this egregious behavior. I was not a fan of either gender after watching them tear apart a (pre-killed) wallaby with their nasty teeth and screechy screeches. I was grateful for the thick glass viewing area at one end of the sanctuary's enclosure!

We were very sad to leave our cozy home at Saffire, but it was time to move on to Barnbougle!

Karen & Steve pose at Wineglass Bay
(Whitish saucer of the goblet just behind K, stem runs
along back side of the mountain to S's left)

Waub's unique maritime location allows
the sea-air to influence its flavors

Sadly the cost of exporting prohibits
Waub from sharing these with the US

Our highly memorable guide Chris

A stunning rainbow after a misty day

The Sisselbergs between our guest units

Day 12 Travel Day: The Great Eastern Drive

 Jan 15th  Day 12

Travel Day: Hobart to Freycinet National Park
(Karen)

Today was a travel day - final destination Saffire Freycinet and we had all day to get there. So our first detour was Richmond (not Virginia), a very small town just northeast of Hobart. There are many wineries in Richmond. We stopped at Frogmore Creek since we had previously enjoyed a Frogmore Riesling.

After a quick wine tasting, we headed out on Tasman Highway (East Coast Highway) for approximately an hour and a half.  We drove along winding roads, through farms and A-LOT of sheep.  We were on the lookout for Wallabies but only saw "Wasas" ( as in "was a Wallaby") on the side of the road.

Gorgeous but scary drive

Devil's Corner was our lunchtime stop. Beautiful views and surprisingly good seafood (oysters and prawns). As we approached Freycinet, we made one final stop - Bicheno ("BEE-shin-oh"), a small beachside town. We walked along the rocks to the "Blow hole," water that shoots up from the rocks.   

 

 We arrived at Freycinet ready for our next adventure.

 

Day 10 - 11 Hobart, Tasmania

 Jan 13 - 14th  Day 10 - 11

Hobart
(Karen)

We flew from Sydney to Hobart, which is the capital of Tasmania, tucked into a cove in southeast Tasmania. It was a short drive to the port where our hotel Macq 01 (short for Macquarrie) is located. A little history - in the early 1800's England sent their convicts to Tasmania and Hobart became a penal colony. Our hotel prides itself on telling the stories of the early settlers. Each room features a different story from the Tasmanian past.

Example of a hotel room door telling a story

Upon arrival we walked along the Harborside and explored the small and quaint area. Dinner that night was the first time since leaving the USA that we had to select a restaurant, make a reservation and choose from a menu. We almost forgot how to do this! (Karen failed to mention, so I'll editorialize, that she and Steven did not forget how to charm their way into an 8pm reservation at a fully booked, wonderful Italian restaurant called Fellini's.)

We started our first full day taking a ferry (thanks Kash for the "Posh" ride) to the MONA, Museum of Old and New Art.

Wind blown but posh all the way

This is the most bizarre and unique museum that we have ever been to and I will do my best to describe. First, the building is underground, cut into a hillside -- you start the tour at the bottom of this cool structure. The three floors of artwork are a mix of eccentric art from all different periods and random exotic pieces that some would consider to be in questionable taste (not us!). There is an "Adult Only" section and my phone issued a warning regarding "sexual content" as I entered. Throw in some Pablo Picasso ceramics and even a Monet.  I'll let these pictures speak rather than try to describe the artwork.

We found Pan scaring some hares

"Fat Ferrari" had one too many
 5-course meals

Words formed from water

There was a lot to see inside his head
-- just not sure what it meant

Outside the museum, there was a beautiful area for lunch and a winery (small and not very enticing). We were entertained by a live (and very loud) metal band -- not our type of music (though the groupies made for some fun people watching).

Late afternoon, Steven and I went for a "wander" and explored the city area of Hobart and the residential area surrounding. We passed the old American Consul, where our consulate helped pardon American convicts in 1843. There was a lot of old history among the residential streets and a lot of action in the small harbor. 

View from a private terrace
(we did trespass!)

 

After a great dinner at Landscape (a must if you ever find yourself in Hobart), we were ready to say goodbye to Hobart and continue on our journey.

Hobart Harbor

Our first taste of 
Tasmanian oysters

look closely at camo!

Tired of carrying Steven's
epi pen, Karen?

separates the posh
from the buoys